The third day in Paris would change my life forever. As our wedding present, my new maternal grandmother-in-law gave us a driver to Versailles. He was a handsome, charming family man named Silvan who arrived in a three month old dark blue Mercedes sedan with dual sunroofs and a GPS — swanky and novel for 2007! We made it to Versailles, about 30 minutes outside of Paris, just before the gates opened. The five hours we spent there were not enough. A lifetime would not have been enough! I had no idea what to expect but I was not prepared to have my heart stop for an instant upon first sight only to have it resume beating never to be the same. For that brief second time and the very blood in my veins stood still. They were restoring the retaining wall to the outside just as it was in Louis the 14th’s time. I quickly discovered why he was called the Sun King. The royal chapel was all gilt and stark white marble. The Hall of Mirrors was partially closed because it was being restored, but for me the true beauty of Versailles was to be found outdoors. Martha Stewart said this:
“It is hard to imagine Andre Le Notre laying out the exquisite landscape designs for Vaux-le-Vicomte, and later the magnificent Chateau de Versailles, with no high hill to stand on, no helicopter to fly in, and no drone to show him the complexities of the terrain. Yet he did, and with extreme precision, accuracy, and high style.”
We had lunch in the gardens and I drank the best fresh orange juice I have ever had. No wonder; they came from an over 200 year old l’orangerie on the grounds. Next we walked the Grand Canal, which Louis XIV had formed in the shape of a cross. It is the most original creation of Andre Le Notre who transformed the east-west perspective into a long, light-filled sheet of water. It took eleven years and was completed in 1679. Over 5,000 feet, the Republic of Venice sent the King two gondolas and four gondoliers and since became known as Little Venice. In summer the King’s fleet sailed along it; in winter skates and sleighs made their way over the frozen water. As we walked along its length that day we saw couples in rowboats enjoying the magnificent views of the palace, the formal gardens, and some of the exquisite statuary found throughout. There were also people walking dogs, riding horses, bicycling and even going around in golf carts due to the immense size of what remains of the royals’ domaine. The enormous and spectacular fountains only run on the weekends so we did not get to see them working. Despite the absence of their dramatic sprays, it was a different kind of delight to see the reflection of the gilt creatures rising up out of the water’s stillness. Pictured above is the stunning Apollo fountain. There were garden mazes, the Trianon, the Petite Trianon and the Grotto which we did not have time to see. But I did make it to Marie Antoinette’s hamlet — her escape from the rigors of court. This was truly the greatest experience of my life. A quaint Parisian French countryside village greeted me, complete with thatched roof buildings, thick roses covering arbors, and winding dirt trails. I peeked through the windows and to my shock saw nothing but all white marble. Literally floor to ceiling, it was the ultimate mix of county charm, decadent wealth and unthinkable opulence. I saw a goat with four horns chewing lazily on grass. Swans and ducks were gliding serenely in the pond where a mill wheel used to turn and coos were coming from a dovecote. I had never seen my beloved calla lilies growing over five feet tall. They extended outward in two huge, dense lines from of one of the houses. It was absolutely breathtaking. I still cannot adequately convey what it was like. I knew I was in love with Paris, but Versailles stole my heart. And a piece of it remains there forever.
