It would be my favorite city we visited on this trip. Clearly visible from the southern tip of Spain, the continent of Africa could be seen. And by that I do not mean Sarah Palinesque; you really could see it! A short ferry ride later and we were in Tangier. Morocco! Of course they speak French so I was thrilled. It holds a rich history beginning with being a strategic Berber town in the 5th century. In the 19th century it was considered to have international status by foreign colonial powers and became a destination for many European and American diplomats, spies, and writers. I have read romance novels where the heroine gets lost down some narrow alleyway. I could certainly see that happening if one veered off the wide, main street. But cool, narrow alleys darkened by shade shielding against the afternoon sun beckoned with the exotic. There were spices of every conceivable sort, silks, and trinkets behind heavy rugs that covered some of the vendors’ openings. If one gave into temptation, as did I, it was incredibly easy to get disoriented with all the twists and turns. One shop blended into the next and before I knew it I was beset upon by three charming, very smart, very persistent little urchins. They hit me up for money in perfect English, French, Spanish, and German before I finally gave in. The trio could not have been more than seven and they KNEW women would soften seeing their dark, puppy dog eyes peeking up at them from beneath long black lashes. The youngest one started crying because he said I didn’t give him any money — when clearly I did. That’s when I realized the little stinkers were professionals. And they were good! I shelled out more dirhams before I realized I’d been had. When I narrowed my eyes and told them in French that was IT the oldest gave me a knowing look and they all scampered off. Making our way back to the main part of the medina, we sat down for some Moroccan mint tea — my absolute favorite. I thought it was strange to be drinking hot tea in the middle of a hot afternoon but it was delicious. When I quietly remarked to my husband how charming the little glasses were with their colorful peacocks on them our sweet server gave mine to me to keep just before we left. I still have it and I cherish it. We went through the old Kasbah and I found myself unwittingly thinking of the ’80’s punk rock song “Rock the Casbah”. We also visited the Kasbah Museum; the former Sultan’s palace. It contained a collection of artifacts from the Phoenician to modern times as well as a beautiful garden. We were there during Ramadan and our lunch was a light one. I remember leaning back against the velvet, colored cushions of my second story window seat looking out over the Grand Mosque of Tangier. Listening to the beautiful, lilting sounds that were the call to prayer coming from loud speakers throughout town was one of the most moving experiences of my life. Perhaps even more surprising was seeing the Anglican Church of Saint Andrew coexisting peacefully not too far away. They seemed to love Americans and Morocco was the first country to recognize the United States in 1777. Locals would stop us just wanting to talk. I could not leave without purchasing a beautiful, cobalt blue hanging lamp. We always keep it on with an electric “gas” light. American writer Paul Theroux said:
“The two impulses in travel are to get away from home, and the other is to pursue something — a landscape, people, an exotic place. Certainly finding a place that you like or discovering something unusual is a very sustaining thing in travel.”
In Morocco I found exotic wares, welcoming people, and a landscape framed by the foaming waves of the sea. It was lovely, memorable, and sustaining indeed.
