Jerez de la Frontera

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It was our first full day in Spain and we were off to visit the city known for horses, sherry, flamenco and motorcycles.  We would experience the first two on this day and began by visiting the Jerez Horse Show.  The Andalusians were stunning but I was not sure how I felt about watching the beautiful creatures “perform”.  I understand it originated for training in battle and has since become more for pageantry of heritage and tradition now.  It is dedicated to conserve classical and country dressage, the breed of the Spanish horse, and the and culture.  As a native Texan, I know hot.  I survived the heat wave of the 80’s and would carry my child during the hottest summer on record.  However, thank the Lord we have air conditioning.  It was Texas hot minus the coolant.  Next we were off to visit the famed sherry vineyards of Tio Pepe.  The lush canopy of green vines provided a respite from the heat and looked like a magical forest.  During our tour we learned the area has a long history of wine production.  Phoenicians, Greeks, Romans, and Moors all brought with them their own wine making techniques when they occupied the area.  The development of sherry reflects the development of Spain itself.  The grounds are composed of several bodegas.  One of the largest, built in 1857, is Los Apostles named for the great central cask “El Cristo”.  Smaller casks flank it, each bearing the names of the Apostles.  There is also La Concha, built in 1862 and designed by the famed Gustav Eiffel.  Flags show each country that has imported their sherry.  In addition there is the Bodega los Reyes bearing the signatures of royalty who have visited.  Others cellars boast the sketches, dates, and signatures of famous artists.  We sat down for a private wine tasting mid-afternoon.  As a vegetarian, I was coming to discover much to my horror that the Spaniards adore prosciutto.  I mean they serve it at every meal and with everything.  The trouble for me was I kept looking for some olives at least.  My husband will not eat anything cold and when he is displeased his lips turn down just like Beaker on the Muppets.  Displeasure for him is having nothing to eat — or in having it served cold.  We sat in tables of four under a tent and I remember praying our sherry tasting would at least cool me down a little.  I cannot remember our fourth other than they were not drinking along with my pouting husband.  But four different bottles later my grandmother-in-law pronounced she was more charming and beautiful than ever.  That woman matched me drink for drink and she was in her early 80’s at the time.  She also spent a considerable amount of time imitating her grandson which made me snicker.  The best part of the afternoon was visiting the final bodega and seeing a wine glass full of sherry with a tiny ladder leading up to it.  It was said there was a mouse who kept chewing through the casks so they began leaving him his own glass.  I could not get a good picture in the dark cellar but it was charming.  We made our way back to Vejer and I decided to enjoy our balcony view and indulge in a cigar.  It was peaceful and I would find myself making the nightly climb to drink in the sights pictured above and to reflect on each day.

“Humans are the only creatures with the ability to dive deep in the sea, fly high in the sky, send instant messages around the globe, reflect on the past, assess the present and imagine the future.”  American Sylvia Earle, first female Chief Scientist of the U.S. National Oceanic and Atmospheric Administration

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